Sundowner Safaris | January 2026

Suyian Lodge opened its doors in late 2025, and we were among the first to experience this ambitious new property in Laikipia. The name means "wild dog" in the local language, which tells you something about their aspirations. But here's the honest truth: if you're coming for the wildlife, temper your expectations significantly. If you're coming for one of the most architecturally stunning safari lodges in East Africa, with views that will stop you in your tracks and food that borders on fine dining, then read on.

Getting There

You have options for reaching Suyian. The most common route is via scheduled flights with Safarilink or Air Kenya from Wilson Airport in Nairobi to Loisaba Airstrip, which takes about 45 minutes. From Loisaba, it's approximately a 45-60 minute drive to the lodge. Alternatively, you can charter directly to Suyian's private airstrip, which cuts the transfer to just 20 minutes.

We chartered from Ol Kiombo airstrip near the Masai Mara aboard a Cessna 206 with Air Wilderness. The 90-minute flight offered a fascinating perspective on how dramatically the landscape shifts from the lush Mara to the dry, rugged terrain of Laikipia. Our pilot Alex was outstanding, and I scored the co-pilot seat, which is always a treat. The flight was somewhat bumpy given our late morning departure on a hot day, but the views made up for it.

The Suyian airstrip isn't easy to spot from the air, but the contrast in landscapes below tells you you've arrived somewhere different. From the airstrip, it's just a 20-minute transfer to the lodge. I'd read reports of bone-rattling roads, but either they've improved things significantly or those accounts were exaggerated. It was a perfectly normal safari road, nothing to write home about. Construction crews are actively working on road improvements throughout the concession.

Our guide Denzol met us at the airstrip. Spoiler alert: he would become the absolute highlight of our stay. More on that later.

The welcome at the lodge was warm and genuine. Six to eight staff members greeted us with a traditional song, chilled pineapple lemonade, and cool towels. Management was present, along with our assigned housekeeper Alex and butler Andrew. We were given a tour of the main areas before sitting down for lunch.

Setting & Location

Suyian sits on a 44,000-acre private concession where it's the only lodge. During our stay, only four or five of the fourteen rooms were occupied, so we rarely encountered other vehicles, apart from construction crews working on a new homestead scheduled to open in 2027.

The landscape is extraordinary and unlike anywhere else I've been in Kenya. Beautiful kopjes, dramatic rocky outcrops, and a sweeping valley that reminded me more of Sedona, Arizona or the deserts of Jordan than East Africa. The lodge perches on a rocky ledge overlooking this spectacular terrain. It's dry, rugged, and utterly beautiful. The scenery alone was worth the visit.

The neighbouring concession is the famous Laikipia Wilderness, home to Giza, the black leopard. Unfortunately, there's no traversing agreement, so you can't access their land. But remarkably, we spotted a different melanistic leopard on the Suyian concession itself. It was distant and skittish, appearing for less than two minutes before vanishing, but what a sighting. All vehicles in camp were out searching, and we were told we were incredibly lucky. There's also excellent birding in the area for those who appreciate it.

Here's the reality check: this is not a wildlife-rich area. Not yet. It's a new conservation area transitioning from cattle ranch land, and the animals need time to return and become accustomed to vehicles. We saw some reticulated giraffe, gerenuk, and Grevy's zebra, but they were often far from the roads. The lodge will off-road for cats but not for general game. Roads still need to be built to access certain parts of the concession.

My advice: book Suyian as a resort with spectacular views, not as a game-viewing destination. Set your wildlife expectations very low, and you'll be pleasantly surprised if you see anything exciting. Come straight from the Mara expecting similar action, and you'll be disappointed.

The weather in January was windy and warm during the day, cold at night. Which brings me to a significant issue with the rooms.

Facilities

The architecture is breathtaking. It looks almost out of place, like something you'd find in the American Southwest or the Middle East, not Kenya. Huge concrete structures with dome ceilings, spectacular tree roots at the entrance, clean modern lines.

The main lodge features a beautiful bar, comfortable lounge areas, and both indoor and outdoor dining spaces. The pool area is stunning with great views, though the pool isn't heated (fairly standard for safari). Your personal butler serves food and drinks wherever you choose to sit.

There's an impressive gym with proper equipment and a dedicated yoga room that feels like a genuine wellness space rather than an afterthought. The spa sits at the far end of the property near Room 1, featuring two treatment rooms with beautiful views.

Room

We stayed in Room 9, with my business partner Benson in Room 8 next door. Room 10 was also occupied. I'm not sure why they clustered everyone together when the lodge was far from full, but it affected the sense of privacy and seclusion you'd expect at this price point.

The room itself is spectacular. You enter through a beautiful mud room into a large living area with a striking round fireplace and soaring dome ceilings made of concrete. The bedroom features a king bed (configurable as twins), followed by an enormous bathroom with a huge concrete tub and shower. Outside, there's a private plunge pool (not heated), outdoor shower, sun beds, and a lounge area. The aesthetic throughout is absolutely stunning.

What worked brilliantly: The food and drinks setup was fantastic. I loved that they provide two mini bars: one for alcoholic drinks and another stocked with healthy juices and kombucha. A thoughtful touch.

What frustrated us: The rooms get too hot at night. During the day, you can open the windows for airflow, but here's the issue: the windows are actually full-height glass doors, which cannot be left open at night as they would potentially allow wildlife inside. With windows closed, there's no ventilation and the heat becomes trapped. They gave us a fan on the second night, but it didn't help much. The lodge acknowledged they've received complaints and are actively looking for a solution. They need either air conditioning or screens so the doors can remain open safely at night.

Another infrastructure issue: the hot water system. Our housekeeper Alex surprised us by preparing a lovely bath one evening, but afterwards there wasn't enough hot water left for a shower. A romantic gesture that backfired.

Privacy is a concern throughout. You can see directly into Room 8's bedroom from the walkway, and Room 8's plunge pool is visible from the main pool area. Some strategically planted trees would help, but I suspect this issue is partially baked into the design. It felt like they could have done something about it.

When the game isn't there, it makes it even more important for the lodge to be perfect. Suyian has wonderful bones, but it needs to iron out the details.

Food

Breakfast is served à la carte after the morning game drive, with breads and snacks for the table. One morning we enjoyed a bush breakfast, and it was a highlight of the trip. They set up a full spread out in the wild: eggs, bacon, sandwiches, and the most delicious yogurt and granola I've ever had on safari.

Lunch was actually the best meal of the day for us. Tapas-style, served family-style, with cold salads and protein options. Your butler serves your group whenever you're ready, so it's not communal dining with other guests. Simple, fresh, and satisfying.

Dinner is à la carte with three courses and a couple of options per course. The steak was very good. We ate inside as it can get quite windy outside in the evenings.

Sundowners in the bush were well executed, with a proper setup in a scenic location. Game drive snacks included chips, biltong, and chicken wings. Drinks selection was excellent, with great cocktails and mocktails on offer.

Overall, I'd rate the food a 7 out of 10. It's good, but perhaps a little too fancy for my taste. It felt like they were trying too hard, when simpler, more authentic safari cuisine would have been preferable.

Service

Service was very good overall. The staff were genuinely happy to serve and eager to please. It's worth noting that &Beyond likes to hire from the local community, and this is the first luxury lodge in this area. Many of the staff are new to luxury hospitality, which explains some of the minor inconsistencies while also making their warmth and effort all the more impressive.

Our butler Andrew was perhaps a little too present for my taste, but he was always there when we needed him and clearly still learning how to be less visible while remaining attentive. That's a skill that comes with experience.

We had a couple of minor hiccups: our housekeeper accidentally woke us during a nap while restocking water bottles, and one morning the wake-up coffee delivery was missed. Small things, but at this level, the details matter.

Management asked for feedback at checkout, which felt genuine but came a little late. It would have been better to check in mid-stay so issues like the room temperature could be addressed sooner.

Activities & Guiding

Let me be clear: Denzol was the best part of our stay. He was fantastic. He told us stories about the concession, the animals, his experiences, the history of the ranch. He was a genuinely nice person who cared deeply about us having a wonderful experience, even knowing that the wildlife wasn't cooperating. When you're on a game drive and the animals aren't showing up, your guide's personality, knowledge, and effort become everything. Denzol delivered on all counts.

We did two game drives per day, each lasting three to four hours, morning and afternoon. Most vehicles at Suyian seat four guests, which creates a more intimate experience. Denzol's usual vehicle was in the shop during our stay, so he was using a larger six-seater typically reserved for bigger groups. On our last day, we switched to a four-seater, which felt more personal. Most guests will be in the smaller vehicles.

Beyond game drives, we enjoyed a bush breakfast, sundowners in the bush, and Samar and Benson did horseback riding. The riding experience was about an hour, tailored to experience level. Since they were beginners, they stayed within a large fenced area, but it was well-organized and they enjoyed it.

It's worth noting that some activities like walking safaris and community visits were not on offer during our stay, possibly still being developed.

The Good

Breathtaking architecture unlike anywhere else in Kenya
Spectacular views and unique Sedona-like landscape
Denzol — an exceptional guide who made the experience
Beautiful rooms with thoughtful touches (dual mini bars)
Private 44,000-acre concession
Excellent lunch service with private butler
Incredible bush breakfast
Great gym, yoga room, and spa facilities
We saw a melanistic leopard (incredibly rare)

The Bad

Wildlife is sparse — this is not a game-viewing destination (yet)
Rooms overheat at night with no ventilation solution
Privacy issues — rooms too close, visible from walkways and pool
Hot water runs out if you use the bath
14 rooms feels large for a safari lodge
Small service details still being ironed out
Food tries a bit too hard — simpler would be better

Conclusion

Suyian Lodge is a study in contrasts. The architecture and design are genuinely world-class. The views are spectacular. The landscape is unlike anything else in Kenya. And in Denzol, they have a guide who can carry an experience even when the wildlife doesn't show up.

But there are fundamental issues that time alone won't fix. The room clustering and privacy concerns are baked into the design. Fourteen rooms feels too large for a truly intimate safari experience. And the current lack of wildlife means you're paying premium prices for what is essentially a beautiful resort with game drives that may or may not deliver.

Who is this for? Honeymooners seeking relaxation and stunning surroundings. Design enthusiasts who appreciate architectural innovation. Guests looking for a fancy camp with beautiful views and great food. People who've done the classic safari circuits and want something visually different.

Who should look elsewhere? Anyone whose primary goal is wildlife viewing. First-time safari-goers who want the classic African experience. Travelers who prefer rustic camps that feel authentically African rather than architecturally designed.

Would we return? I think Suyian needs a few more years. Time for the concession to build out its road network, for wildlife populations to recover and become habituated to vehicles, and for the lodge to work out the kinks in the rooms. There are some clients who might appreciate it now, but I'd be careful about who I send there and would set expectations very clearly.

The potential is enormous. The bones are extraordinary. But for now, it's a beautiful work in progress.

Sundowner Safaris Rating

3.5 / 5

A resort with views, not for the game

Visited: January 2026 | Reviewed by Reza, Sundowner Safaris

sundownersafaris.com

Review: &Beyond Suyian Lodge, Kenya